TRAИSIBERIAИA 2016 - by Allan Costa
E começou!!!!!!!
Primeiro dia de gala, que é pra começar com o pé direito. Foram 860 km de asfalto em quase 13 horas de viagem. Começamos a arrumar as motos as 6h30, mas não conseguimos sair antes das 8h. Tralha demais!
Partimos sentido Nizhniy Novgorod, e de lá pra Kazan. Na saída de Moscou, trânsito intenso e 5/6 pistas em perfeitíssimo estado de conservação. Cerca de 200 km depois de Moscou, começou a ter de tudo. Pista simples, pista dupla, pista nenhuma (tudo em obra) e continuamos pegando tráfego muito intenso pela maior parte do caminho.
Temperatura entre 15 e 19 graus, perfeita para viajar de moto. Os equipamentos todos funcionando como esperado, tanto as motos quanto as roupas/botas/luvas. Abastecimento ultra tranquilo, não dá nem pra ficar na tensão se vamos encontrar gasolina antes de acabar porque tem posto a cada esquina. A comunicação nos postos também não foi problema. Aprendemos antes da viagem que as pessoas não abastecem pedindo para comprar certa quantidade de dinheiro em combustível, mas sim pedindo certa quantidade de combustível e pagando por ela. Em outras palavras, nada de pedir no posto “200 reais”. Tem que pedir “20 litros”. Fácil e direto. Complica porque a gente dificilmente consegue saber exatamente quando falta pra encher o tanque, mas estamos bebendo em média 15 l a cada 200 km, então fica fácil. Basta escrever em um papelzinho “20 l – 95”, entregar ao caixa e pronto. O 95 que vem depois é o tipo da gasolina, eles tem a 92 (gasolina pra carro antigo, suponho eu que menos refinada) e a 95. A gasolina está barata, entre R$ 1,80 e R$ 2,00 o litro, o que é sempre uma boa notícia.
Fizemos uma média horária de cerca de 80 km/h nesse primeiro dia, seguramente muito comprometida pelo excesso de tráfego e obras na estrada. Para o almoço paramos em um restaurante na beira da estrada bem “local” e até tentamos comer uns peixes que estavam a venda em umas barracas do lado de fora (fotos abaixo), mas foi meio difícil… apelamos pra sopa de noddles, salsicha (tem salsicha pra todo lado) e um bolinho que parece um kibe super temperado que me fez um bem danado pra memória, fiquei lembrando do infeliz a tarde inteira…
Nesse primeiro dia, fica o registro de que não existe mesmo outra maneira de tirar suas próprias conclusões a não ser viajando e indo ver com os próprios olhos o que os livros mostram e os outros contam. Ao longo da preparação para essa viagem, ouvimos um pouco de tudo. Rússia???? Nossa senhora, máfia Russa, como que vão se virar com a língua, as pessoas não vão entender nada, é perigoso, Russo não gosta de moto, Russo é grosseiro, o trânsito é um caos, a polícia é corrupta, tem os albergues onde matam os turistas que nem no filme. E por aí vai… um monte de cliché e bobagem que até aqui, não passou nem perto de se confirmar.
Pra começar, os Russos são DEZ!!!!! Não, não parecem um bando de biscate rindo feito idiotas sem motivo aparente. Mas são cordiais, abertos, interativos e se esforçam sempre que necessário para ajudar. Não tivemos a mínima sensação de insegurança em lugar nenhum até aqui. Polícia sempre por perto, nada que possa, de alguma maneira, gerar medo de qualquer espécie. O app do google (Google translator) é simplesmente fantástico. Sim, ele funciona e estamos nos virando estupidamente bem com ele (hehehehe, o que ouvimos gente dizendo que éramos idiotas por acreditar que daria pra se virar em Russo com um app, não foi brincadeira). Russo ADORA moto, nas estradas os motoristas abrem espaço para as motos, não ouvimos uma buzina que fosse. O trânsito é “nervoso”, mas não mais que no Brasil. Aliás, eles parecem saber o que estão fazendo, Dirigem rápido e de forma pouco conservadora, mas prefiro mil vezes um motorista agressivo que sabe o que faz do que o domingueiro se arrastando e atrapalhando a vida da humanidade com seu carrinho “cuidadoso”. Não recebemos ainda nenhum convite para hotéis com dúzias de mulheres lindas semi-nuas e sedentas por sexo, e, portanto, ainda não nos deparamos com o albergue! E sim, encontramos a polícia porque NÓS fizemos merda, ultrapassamos em faixa contínua e fomos parados. Nos abordaram educadamente, se esforçaram para nos fazer entender a razão pela qual fomos parados (mostraram até figuras em um manualzinho) e tudo correu bem. O fato é que o desconhecido gera curiosidade e interesse. E enquanto alguns transformam essas sensações em combustível para explorar o novo, outros se recolhem incapazes de dar o primeiro passo e se agarram às desculpas, sejam elas quais forem, para justificar sua própria impossibilidade de “voar”. E aí, lagartixa vira dragão!
Aliás, é meio parecido também como viagens de moto. Quando me preparava para ir pra Ushuaia pela Ruta 40 e Carretera Austral, anos atrás, li relatos que me deixaram de cabelo em pé. Nossa senhora, eu tinha certeza que ia morrer umas cinco vezes naquelas estradas de tão perigosas que elas eram. Fui, voltei, e não vi pooooouuurra nenhuma que fosse motivo pra que qualquer pessoa tivesse receio de percorrer aqueles caminhos.
Ao final do nosso primeiro dia, fica uma certeza: viajar é do caralho!!!!!! E muito melhor do que “comprar” as ideias e crenças de qualquer pessoa a respeito de qualquer lugar, é arregaçar as mangas, juntar os caraminguás e ir lá ver.
Esse foi só o primeiro dia! Todos os detalhes da viagem, você irá encontrar em www.transiberiana.com.br!

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